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Sowei 2025-01-13
lodibet net
lodibet net Sitting around the dinner table with my wife’s family one night, I mentioned to my mother-in-law - born and raised in Kingston, Jamaica - that I wanted to learn to make fish tea, the aromatic fish soup of her home country and a favourite of her father’s. Without skipping a beat, she said what became a popular refrain through all my subsequent recipe tests: "You’ve gotta use the head!” Plenty of dishes from the Jamaican canon are well-known: jerk, obviously; oxtail; rice and peas. But when I married into a half-Jamaican family and started visiting the island regularly, I learned an important thing: Never sleep on the soups. And while I love Jamaican chicken soup and red pea soup, there’s something about fish tea that I find irresistible. Where seafood soups and stews, such as bouillabaisse or cioppino, can feel like sticking your head in a rock pool - full of shells, chunks of fish and fishy flavour - sipping fish tea is like staring transfixed as the shadow of a fish glides by in clear blue water. The dish is named for its ample broth and because it’s often served in cups. "The liquid itself remains very thin,” said Riaz Phillips, the London-based British Caribbean food writer and cookbook author. "It’s watery, but it’s water packed with flavor.” Each trip to Jamaica brings with it my first taste of a new dish in situ - there’s been glorious escovitch at Gloria’s Seafood City in Port Royal; perfect patties from the local bakery in rural Trelawny; callaloo-filled steamed bao at the Chinese Jamaican supermarket in uptown Kingston. My first serving of fish tea came at the seaside restaurant at the storied Jamaican hotel GoldenEye, in the North Coast town of Oracabessa. Chef Laire Robinson grew up along this stretch of coast with a fisherman father. At home, "we had fish tea weekly or two times a week,” he told me, adding: "You might see these little kitchens on the roadside - little cookshops. Most of them are selling fish tea, especially if it’s a fishing village.” GoldenEye sources all its fish from the surrounding fishing community, and the most common fish to use is doctorfish, a small, coral-reef-dwelling species. "If it’s not doctorfish,” Robinson said, "it’s got to be snapper.” Neily Bowlin, a chef from Black River, Jamaica, who manages multiple locations of Mac’s Seafood market in Cape Cod, Massachusetts, likes to use the local catch when he prepares fish tea at home. "I harvest and store as much striped bass as I can,” he said. "But the trick is I only use the heads and collars, because what we’re shooting for is all that collagen. That’s what fish tea is all about.” The echo of my mother-in-law’s rule! Robinson told me the same: "Sometimes you might get a head from a barracuda or a large snapper - all that gelatin from the head gives the soup a distinct flavour.” Apart from the fish, the hard food or provisions, as various starchy vegetables are known collectively, vary from soup pot to soup pot. "The thing you’ll find about Jamaica is everyone has their own recipe!” said my wife’s aunt Donna Noble, a food stylist, cookbook author and organic farming pioneer who lives in the Blue Mountains. "When I make fish tea, I cheat and make it a bit more robust, so more of a soup,” she said. Phillips, in London, does the same - the recipe for fish tea in his beautiful 2022 Jamaican cookbook, "West Winds,” calls for pumpkin, yam, green banana (plantain), carrot, potato, corn and more. "That starch is my preference,” he said. "Any time I got it as a kid, I wanted more in my bowl.” In the first version I had at GoldenEye, which is in a parish known for its bananas, young green plantain left in its skin and cut into coins was the only adornment save for carrot and the oblong flour-and-water dumplings known as spinners, which enhance most Jamaican soups. Bowlin, on Cape Cod, uses carrots, his own homegrown potatoes, and both spinners and round dumplings (to satisfy his kids’ competing preferences). Auntie Donna insists on okra and also champions chocho (chayote squash). Despite all this variety, certain ingredients are nonnegotiable: The classic trio of scallion, thyme and whole allspice berries (called pimento seeds in Jamaica) perfume the fish stock that serves as the dish’s foundation. Whole Scotch bonnet pepper is often added to gently flavour the simmering soup, and another pepper is finely chopped and sprinkled over each portion just before serving. But not too much. "Only a foolish man cries over his food,” said Robinson, starting to laugh, "so it’s got to be moderate.” In my own tests, I tried versions that begin with simmering a whole fish, straining it and adding the resulting stock to diced vegetables. I also tried a version that drops the fish, head and all, into the already-simmering pot full of potatoes, carrots, chayote and green plantain (my chosen vegetables). In truth, even with the risk of bones, scales and other bits to negotiate (even after the fish is removed and the flaky flesh reintroduced), the latter version tasted best and turned into a stunning aspic in the fridge overnight, bursting with flavour the next day. "A real, authentic fish tea as Jamaicans make it - there’s no straining involved. We just go for it,” Bowlin told me, and I now understand what he meant. The strained version - what I based this recipe on - doesn’t lack in flavour but is more nuanced and easier to eat. I also tried making the soup with dainty fillets of local whitefish simmered in store-bought fish stock that’s been doctored with thyme and allspice. It wasn’t bad, but I can’t endorse it - only a foolish man goes against his mother-in-law. You’ve gotta use the head. Servings: 4 (makes about 7 cups) Active time: 20 mins; Total time: 1 hour 15 mins Fish tea, the aromatic fish soup of Jamaica, gets its name from a comparatively thin broth that buzzes with the perfume of allspice, thyme, scallion and Scotch bonnet pepper. From there, the dish is almost infinitely customisable - in addition to (or instead of) the ingredients listed here, the soup can include okra, yam, West Indian pumpkin, spinners (oblong flour-and-water dumplings) and more. But Scotch bonnet is key - if you can handle it, a bit of very finely chopped hot pepper added to each bowl lends an irresistible, fruit-forward spice that ties everything together. Make ahead: The soup is delicious the day it is made, but its flavours develop even more the next day. Storage: Refrigerate for up to 2 days. Where to buy: Chayote can be found at Latin and international markets, and well-stocked supermarkets. 2 bunches scallions (about 14 scallions) 6 cups water 20 sprigs fresh thyme (from 1 small bunch), divided One (2-inch) piece unpeeled fresh ginger 1 1/2 teaspoons whole allspice 1 gutted, scaled and cleaned whole red snapper (1 pound) Fine salt 1 medium russet potato (10 ounces), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks 1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks 1 small chayote squash, cut into 1/2-inch chunks 1 green plantain, peeled and sliced 1/2-inch thick 2 Scotch bonnet peppers, divided Trim 4 of the scallions and place them in a wide shallow pot or skillet with tall sides; chop the remaining scallions and set aside. To the pot, add the water, 10 sprigs of the thyme, the ginger and 1/2 teaspoon of the allspice. Set over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Season the fish generously with salt, then add to the pot. Gently poach, adjusting the heat as needed to maintain a simmer, until the fish flakes easily and infuses the stock, about 20 minutes. About 10 minutes into the fish poaching, in a large, deep pot combine the potato, carrot, squash and plantain, along with the remaining thyme sprigs, allspice, 1 of the Scotch bonnet peppers (left whole) and half of the chopped scallions. When the fish is done poaching, use a thin, metal spatula to transfer it to a large plate. Set a fine-mesh strainer over the pot with the vegetables and pour the broth through it. Season to taste with salt and bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce the heat so the broth is at a gentle simmer and cook uncovered, until the vegetables are tender and the flavors are well incorporated, about 30 minutes. While the soup cooks, carefully separate the fish from the bones and return it to the pot with the broth and vegetables. (Discard or compost the bones and the whole Scotch bonnet pepper.) Taste, and season the broth with more salt as desired. Finely mince the remaining Scotch bonnet - use kitchen gloves or a fork to avoid touching the pepper directly. Taste a tiny piece to judge the heat level before adding to the soup. When ready to serve, discard the thyme sprigs and as many of the allspice berries as you can (they often gather at the surface around the sides of the pot). Ladle into bowls, garnish with the remaining chopped scallions and minced Scotch bonnet, and serve hot. Substitutions: Instead of red snapper >> try using sea bass. Can’t find Scotch bonnet peppers >> use habanero peppers. Chayote >> try chopped okra or pumpkin. Nutritional Facts per serving | Calories: 317; Fat: 2 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Carbohydrates: 48 g; Sodium: 170 mg; Cholesterol: 42 mg; Protein: 28 g; Fiber: 6 g; Sugar: 4 g

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JA Solar And Huawei Collaborate With UNESCO And Thailand's Ministry Of Education To Advance Green EducationRomania's far-right candidate Calin Georgescu on Saturday urged voters to go to polling stations despite the country's top court having scrapped the presidential elections over alleged irregularities amid claims of Russian interference. The court's shock ruling, coming just before the presidential run-off which had been due Sunday, opens the way for a new electoral process starting from scratch in the EU and NATO member state bordering war-torn Ukraine. The annulment follows a spate of intelligence documents declassified by the presidency this week detailing allegations against Georgescu and Russia, including claims of "massive" social media promotion and cyberattacks. Georgescu -- who unexpectedly topped last month's first round of voting -- called for voters on Sunday "to wait to be welcomed, to wait for democracy to win through their power", said a statement from his team. "Mr. Calin Georgescu believes that voting is an earned right," said the statement. "That is why he believes that Romanians have the right to be in front of the polling stations tomorrow." Georgescu himself would go to a polling station near Bucharest at 0600 GMT, said his team. Earlier Saturday, police raided three houses in Brasov city in central Romania as part of the investigation "in connection with crimes of voter corruption, money laundering, computer forgery". Among the houses searched was that of businessman Bogdan Peschir, a TikTok user who according to the declassified documents allegedly paid $381,000 to those involved in the promotion of Georgescu, Romanian media reported. Peschir has compared his support for Georgescu to the world's richest man Elon Musk's backing of US president-elect Donald Trump. Little-known outsider Georgescu, a 62-year-old former senior civil servant, was favourite to win the second round on Sunday against centrist pro-EU mayor Elena Lasconi, 52, according to several polls. But the constitutional court on Friday unanimously decided to annul the entire electoral process as it was "marred... by multiple irregularities and violations of electoral legislation". President Klaus Iohannis said on Saturday that he had discussed with European Commission chief Ursula von der Leyen, and they agreed on the "need to strengthen the security of social media". The European Commission announced earlier this week that it had stepped up monitoring TikTok after Romania's authorities alleged "preferential treatment" of Georgescu on the platform -- a claim the company has denied. Following the court's decision, the United States said it had faith in Romania's institutions and called for a "peaceful democratic process". Trump's eldest son, Donald Trump Jr., on X branded the vote's cancellation an "attempt at rigging the outcome" and "denying the will of the people". Georgescu called it "a formalised coup d'etat" and said democracy was "under attack". His team on Saturday declined to comment on the raids, saying they "will not comment or provide answers until we have exact data". Georgescu and another far-right party, the AUR, have said they plan to appeal the decision to stop the voting to the High Court of Cassation and Justice. A past admirer of Russian President Vladimir Putin, Georgescu, an EU and NATO sceptic, in recent days had reframed himself as "ultra pro-Trump," vowing to put Romania "on the world map" and cut aid for neighbouring Ukraine. In an interview with US broadcaster Sky News on Saturday, Georgescu said there were no links between him and Russia. Political scientist Costin Ciobanu told AFP that the annulment has "further polarised Romanian society". With trust in institutions and the ruling class already low, the vote's cancellation poses a "major danger that Romanians will think that it doesn't matter how they vote", Ciobanu added. Elsewhere in the EU, Austria annulled presidential elections in 2016 because of procedural irregularities. In Romania, a new government is expected to set another date for the presidential vote. In last weekend's legislative elections, the ruling Social Democrats came top. But far-right parties made big gains, securing an unprecedented third of the ballots on mounting anger over soaring inflation and fears over Russia's war in Ukraine. In a joint appeal on Wednesday, the Social Democrats and three other pro-EU parties -- together making up an absolute majority in parliament -- signed an agreement to form a coalition, promising "stability". bur-jza/jjNone

Sideshows: The tire-spinning, rubber-burning Bay Area phenomenon that some hate and some loveBy CHRIS MEGERIAN and COLLEEN LONG WASHINGTON (AP) — In the two weeks since Donald Trump won the presidency, he’s tried to demonstrate his dominance by naming loyalists for top administration positions, even though many lack expertise and some face sexual misconduct accusations. It often seems like he’s daring Congress to oppose his decisions. But on Thursday, Trump’s attempt to act with impunity showed a crack as Matt Gaetz , his choice for attorney general, withdrew from consideration. Trump had named Gaetz, a Florida congressman, to be the country’s top law enforcement official even though he was widely disliked by his colleagues, has little legal experience and was accused of having sex with an underage girl, an allegation he denied. After being plagued by investigations during his first presidency, Trump wanted a devoted ally in charge of the Justice Department during his second. However, it was never obvious that Gaetz could win enough support from lawmakers to get confirmed as attorney general. Trump chose for a replacement Pam Bondi, a former Florida attorney general who defended him during his first impeachment trial and supported his false claims of voter fraud. Now the question is whether Gaetz was uniquely unpalatable, or if Trump’s other picks might exceed his party’s willingness to overlook concerns that would have sunk nominees in a prior political era. The next test will likely be Pete Hegseth, who Trump wants to lead the Pentagon despite an allegation of sexual assault that he’s denied. So far, Republicans are rallying around Hegseth , an Army veteran and former Fox News host. Sen. Thom Tillis, a North Carolina Republican who serves on the Senate Judiciary Committee, said the controversy over Gaetz would have little bearing on Trump’s other choices. He said they would be considered “one at a time.” Sen. Richard Blumenthal, a Connecticut Democrat, suggested otherwise, claiming “the dominoes are falling.” “The drip drip of evidence and truth is going to eventually doom some others,” he said. Trump’s election victory was a sign that there may not be many red lines left in American politics. He won the presidential race despite authoritarian, racist and misogynist rhetoric, not to mention years of lies about election fraud and his role in sparking the Jan. 6, 2021, attack on the U.S. Capitol. He was also criminally convicted of falsifying business records to pay hush money, and he was found liable for sexual abuse in a civil case. Empowered by voters who looked past his misconduct and saw him as a powerful agent of change, Trump has shown no deference to Washington norms while working to fill his second administration . The transition team hasn’t pursued federal background checks for Trump’s personnel choices. While some of his selections have extensive experience in the areas they’ve been chosen to lead, others are personal friends and Fox News personalities who have impressed and flattered Trump over the years. Several have faced allegations involving sexual misconduct . Hegseth is facing the most scrutiny after Gaetz. Once Trump announced Hegseth as his nominee for Pentagon chief, allegations emerged that he sexually assaulted a woman in California in 2017. The woman said he took her phone, blocked the door to the hotel room and refused to let her leave, according to a police report made public this week. Hegseth told police at the time that the encounter had been consensual and denied any wrongdoing, the report said. However, he paid the woman a confidential settlement in 2023. Hegseth’s lawyer said the payment was made to head off the threat of a baseless lawsuit. Trump’s choice for secretary of health and human Services, Robert F. Kennedy Jr., has faced allegations of misconduct too. A woman who babysat for him and his second wife told Vanity Fair magazine that Kennedy groped her in the late 1990s, when she was 23. Kennedy did not deny the allegation and texted an apology to the woman after the article was published. That isn’t the only hurdle for Kennedy; he’s spent years spreading misinformation and conspiracy theories about vaccines, raising fears about making him a top health official in the new administration. Linda McMahon, chosen by Trump to be education secretary, is fighting a lawsuit connected to her former company, World Wrestling Entertainment. She’s accused of knowingly enabling sexual exploitation of children by an employee as early as the 1980s, and she denies the allegations. Tulsi Gabbard is another person who could face a difficult confirmation battle, but for very different reasons. The former Democratic representative from Hawaii has been a vocal Trump ally, and he chose her to be national intelligence director. But there’s grave concern by lawmakers and national security officials over Gabbard’s history of echoing Russian propaganda. Critics said she would endanger relationships with U.S. allies. Gaetz was investigated by federal law enforcement for sex trafficking, but the case was closed without charges and Republicans have blocked the release of a related report from the House Ethics Committee. However, some allegations leaked out, including that Gaetz paid women for sex. One of the women testified to the committee that she saw Gaetz having sex with a 17-year-old girl, according to a lawyer for the woman. As Gaetz met with senators this week, it became clear that he would face stubborn resistance from lawmakers who were concerned about his behavior and believed he was unqualified to run the Justice Department. “While the momentum was strong, it is clear that my confirmation was unfairly becoming a distraction,” Gaetz wrote on social media when announcing his withdrawal. Sen. Mike Braun, an Indiana Republican, said he believed there were four to six members of the caucus who would have voted against Gaetz, likely dooming his nomination, and “the math got too hard.” He said some of the issues and allegations around Gaetz were “maybe beyond the pale.” “I think there were just too many things, it was like a leaky dike, and you know, it broke,” Braun said. Trump thanked Gaetz in a post on Truth Social, his social media website, without addressing the substance of the allegations against him. “He was doing very well but, at the same time, did not want to be a distraction for the Administration, for which he has much respect,” Trump wrote. Associated Press writers Mary Clare Jalonick, Stephen Groves and Lisa Macaro contributed from Washington. Jill Colvin in New York and Adriana Gomez Licon in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, also contributed.

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